Review – CHI L.D Light Meter + Laser Rangefinder

INTRODUCTION

Over the last 40+ years in the photographic industry, we spent over half of those years using film cameras. All the cameras we used pre-AF (autofocus) were SLR cameras and therefore had a built-in lightmeter and split-image focusing. The only exception was the rangefinder Fuji G617 Panoramic Camera that we used for about 20 years. This camera required a handheld light meter to obtain exposure and manual focusing; however, the camera was used for landscape photography, so the focus was normally set at the hyperfocal distance for sharpness from foreground to background.

We happily moved to digital in 2005 and have never looked back – until recently. Over recent years, we have become fascinated with vintage cameras and have acquired several, some in mint condition and some not so mint. With the revival of film over the last couple of years, there has been a flurry of demand online, with old cameras and expired film starting to surface to be sold for ridiculous prices.

For film photographers, precise distance measurement is crucial—especially when using manual-focus cameras and rangefinders. However, if you are confident when measuring the distance to the subject by eye, zone focusing is quicker and more efficient. If you want everything in focus, then hyperfocal focus is probably the quickest way to focus. This, of course, is only relevant if you have the focusing scale on the camera’s lens. 

For photographers who use vintage film cameras that lack a light meter, there are a few options available. We already own the TTArtisan Light Meter II that neatly attaches to the hot shoe of the camera; however, although extremely handy, it can only give us a light reading. To measure distance to aid in focusing requires purchasing a range finder. After some research, we found the Chi L.D. Meter, which is a combined laser rangefinder and light meter (the L.D. stands for Lighting and Distance). The compact laser distance meter feature promises quick and accurate measurements, but how well does it serve the needs of analog shooters?

In this review, we’ll examine its usability for film photography, key features, and real-world performance, to help you decide if it’s the right tool for your workflow.

Chinotechs (CHI) kindly sent us a sample of the L.D. Light Meter; however, we have not been paid for this review.

As mentioned, we have several camera candidates for this review, but we have decided to use our 1965 Zeiss Ikon Contessa LBE 35mm film camera (pictured below). This camera has a built-in light meter; however, this has ceased working, but the focusing aid still works, so we should be able to compare the laser’s accuracy with the camera’s focus.

HYPERFOCAL FOCUSING v ZONE FOCUSING

Hyperfocal distance focusing is a technique in photography used to maximise the depth of field (DoF), ensuring that everything in a scene from a certain point very close to the camera all the way to infinity appears acceptably sharp.

It is a crucial method for landscape, architectural, and street photographers who need both a nearby foreground and a distant background to be in focus, often when using a wide-angle lens.

Why It’s Used

1. Maximum Sharpness Throughout the Frame: It’s the most effective way to get both a nearby object (like a rock or a flower) and a distant mountain range in focus simultaneously.
2. Optimal Use of Depth of Field: It prevents the common mistake of just focusing on infinity, which wastes a portion of the depth of field that extends behind the focus point, resulting in a soft foreground.
3. Low-Light and Large Aperture Limitations: When a photographer cannot use a very small aperture (like f/16 or f/22) due to low light or wanting to avoid lens diffraction, hyperfocal distance allows them to get the deepest possible depth of field with a wider aperture (like f/8 or f/11).

Personally, this is a technique we frequently use in our digital photography, especially with our manual focus Voigtlander 10mm f/5.6, Laowa 15mm f/2 Zero-Distortion, and Samyang 12mm f/2.8 Fisheye lenses. All these lenses are designed to obtain as much depth of field as possible and would rarely, if ever, be used with Zone Focus techniques. For over 20 years we used the Fuji G617 Panoramic rangefinder, and we only used the hyperfocal distance for focusing this camera.

Zone focusing is a manual focusing technique where a photographer pre-sets their lens to a specific distance and aperture so that a predetermined “zone” or range within the frame will be acceptably sharp, without needing to refocus for each shot.

It is a fast, reactive method prized by street, documentary, and event photographers for its ability to capture decisive moments without the uncertainty of manual focusing.

Why It’s Used

1. Speed: It is the fastest possible way to take a photo. The camera is ready to fire the instant you see a moment.
2. Predictability: You know exactly what will be in focus before you even look through the viewfinder. This allows for shooting “from the hip” or without raising the camera to your eye, perfect for discreet street photography.
3. Reliability: It works perfectly in low-light situations where focusing can be difficult.

Summary

Hyperfocal Distance is a specific calculation—the precise focus distance that pushes the depth of field to its maximum, from half that distance to infinity. For example, on the Zeiss Ikon Contessa film camera above, if you set the focus to 6m at f/8, then everything from 3m to infinity will be sharp.

Zone Focusing is a technique that uses the principle of depth of field. You can use the hyperfocal distance to set your zone, but a zone can also be set to any other range (e.g., 3ft to 7ft for a crowded room) that isn’t necessarily from half the distance to infinity.

Ultimately, it is up to you to decide which technique suits you best for your type of photography; however, a firm grasp of both techniques will help you get sharp photos for all scenarios.

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WHAT’S IN THE BOX?

Firstly, there are two versions of the L.D. Meter – the Lite and the Pro. The only difference between the two versions is the angle of view of the sensor. The Lite has a 30° angle of view, giving a wider field of view and therefore a more average meter reading similar to a light meter in a DSLR camera. The Pro version has a narrow 7° angle of view, providing a more targeted reading that is probably better for those who shoot portraits or products. In hindsight, in our photography, we would be better off with the Lite version; however, we requested, and were sent, the Pro version. Our bad!

Update: In April 2026, Chi released the NYX model of the meter. This new model is completely unbranded with no logos or engravings to ensure a seamless aesthetic match with your vintage film cameras. This model features a larger light-sensing area for pinpoint accuracy, even in extremely low-light or high-glare environments. It is also customisable between 7º and 30º.

The L.D. Meter arrived boxed as pictured below. There are two boxes provided. The black box contains the meter, and the white box contains a short USB to USB-C charging cable. The box containing the meter can be opened by pulling on the tab on the bottom of the box indicated by the arrow. Inside the box are the following items –

1. 1 x LD Meter (Pro or Lite)
2. 1 x User Manual

The body of the L.D. Meter is constructed from aluminium with a matte finish, and we must say the product appears to be of high quality. At the top of the meter is a rigid, bevelled adjustment dial that rotates smoothly between clicks. The screen is a 0.96″ LCD that is bright and reads very clearly. The dimensions of the product are: (Depth) 36mm x (Width) 32mm x (Height) 20mm.

At the base of the LD Meter is the cold shoe attachment that is attached by 2 screws. The left side of the meter is devoid of any features but can house the optional magnetic sight. The USB port and Laser on/off switch are located on the right side of the meter. Our first impression is that the LD Meter is a well-designed and engineered piece of equipment.

Unfortunately, they did not include the magnetic sight or the red dot sight that attaches to the side of the meter to enable you to visually aim the laser for subjects that are at a distance where you can no longer see the laser, so this will not be a comprehensive review. We will post an update once we have received the accessories.

HOW TO USE THE L.D. METER

Once you have removed the light meter it should be fully charged. If not, connect the included USB to USB-C cable and charge the battery. Next, read the User Manual, although depending on when you purchase the device, disregard the instructions regarding changing from Aperture Priority to Shutter Priority as the instructions are incorrect—instead, double hard-click on the M button at the back of the meter. Hopefully, your copy will have this amended in the User Manual, but if not, that is how you change between the two modes.

The M button, as mentioned above, is the main button for changing all the settings in the meter.

The M button has a soft click and a hard click. To turn the meter on, it is a hard click. The meter will automatically turn off when idle for a period of time. The soft click is used to toggle between the Single Meter and Continuous Meter. To change between the two, softly hold down the M key for a few seconds until the C appears.  The Single Meter (S) will measure the light each time it is softly pressed. In Continuous Meter (C), it will continuously meter without pressing the M button. To return to the Single Metering mode, just soft-click the M button. Please note: the meter may not automatically switch off if left in Continuous Meter (C) mode, as it is constantly metering the scene. To save battery power, switch back to Single Meter (S) mode.

As mentioned above, to change between Aperture Priority Mode and Shutter Priority Mode, depress the M button hard twice in a row. The arrow next to the aperture will move up to the shutter speed, designating that you are now in Shutter Priority Mode. To change any of the settings in the mode, rotate the Adjustment Dial on top of the meter to your desired setting. In Aperture Priority mode, the shutter speed will change based on the Aperture you select and vice versa.  The metre will allow you to change Aperture Settings from f/1 to f/64 and Shutter Settings from 60sec to 1/8000th

To change the ISO, hold down the M button firmly until the ISO starts flashing, then change the ISO with the Adjustment Dial on top of the Meter. To set, press the M button lightly.  The metre will allow you to change the ISO from ISO3 to ISO8000, which is more than ample, as the fastest film available is ISO 3200.

If you want to change the distance from metres to feet when using the laser rangefinder, press the M button until the m symbol in the square brackets flashes. Change with the Adjustment Dial.

The area inside the square brackets should read “Null“. Once you have turned on the laser feature on the side of the meter, you will see a symbol appear next to the Single & Continuous Meter mode symbol. Lightly depress the M button to activate the laser and give you a distance reading (see important note below). When the laser is on and the Continuous Meter Mode is selected, the laser will remain on and flash continually. The laser distance range is 0.1m – 50m.

Lastly, for your reference, the LCD screen also displays light in EV (Exposure Value) and a Battery Power indicator.

If you would prefer to watch a video of how to use the Chi LD Meter, see below.

HOW ACCURATE IS THE METER?

As mentioned above, we were sent the Pro version, which has only a 7° angle of view, making it closer to a spot meter. This angle is more ideal when subjects dominate your composition and instances that do not include the sky. In these cases, the Pro version is extremely accurate compared to our Sony A7Riii camera meter. For a general scene, the Pro version is best used by taking a reading from highlights and shadows and averaging the exposure. If you want a meter for everyday scenes, the Lite version might be more practical. We also found that the Chi LD Meter was more accurate than the TTartisan Meter II, which tends to underexpose. This may be an unfair comparison, as the TTartisan meter has a 45º angle of view compared to the 7º angle of the LD Meter.

HOW ACCURATE IS THE LASER?

The laser can focus on subjects >10cm (3.94in) from the laser. Any closer than this and you will get an Err message on the screen. As far as maximum distance is concerned, it will be as far as the eye can see, however, you will more than likely not be able to physically see the red dot for distant objects. This is where the optional magnetic sight and red dot sight will come in handy. In most cases, when the subject is at a distance that you can no longer see the laser red dot,  then maybe you should consider using the hyperfocal distance for focusing instead. 

The laser is also very accurate when viewed through the camera viewfinder. Select Continuous (hold down the M button until the S changes to C) when the laser is switched on. You will see a ghosted red dot of the laser through the camera viewfinder. Rotate the focus on the camera until the two dots converge, and you will be in focus. This is particularly good for low-light photography.

Beware: In general, reflective surfaces such as windows and mirrors confuse laser meters, so this may affect accuracy. Instead, find an area adjacent to the subject and take a reading.

USING THE LASER FOR ZONE FOCUSING

For those who shoot street photography or any kind of photography where you want to take photos quickly, Zone Focus is the quickest and easiest way to capture images. We shoot a lot of street, travel, and documentary-style images in our digital work, and we tend to work quite quickly. There are many instances in which we want to capture a subject with a shallow depth of field, and in the realm of rangefinder film photography, zone focus is a great way to achieve this.

For example, when using our vintage 1965 Zeiss Ikon Contessa LBE film camera, we can set the aperture to f/8. Using the Zone Focus technique, we can set the left hand f/8 on the focus scale to the 6m mark, and the right hand f/8 will indicate a distance just over the 2m mark. So, at this setting, everything between 2m and 6m will be in acceptable focus (the hyperfocal distance will be just over 3m, and this will be the sharpest area in the zone). Unless you are really good at judging distances, you could now use the laser feature of the LD Meter to measure a distance that falls between these two parameters and shoot any subjects that fall in this range. To increase the depth of field to infinity, we would use Hyperfocal Focusing. At the same aperture, we would simply move the focus ring so that the left f/8 mark sits opposite the infinity mark. This will now give us a depth of field from 3m to infinity. When using Hyperfocal Focus the laser would only be useful to confirm the 3m distance from the camera.

Before you go and rattle off a lot of shots on film, try perfecting the zone focus technique using an adapted vintage lens on a digital camera. This will save you a fair bit of money in film and processing costs.

Note: The meter is reflected-light only (similar to a light meter in a Mirrorless, DSLR, or SLR camera). Many professionals prefer incident metering for portraiture and studio work. The inability to attach a white dome to measure light falling onto the subject means it cannot replicate light readings taken with a dedicated incident meter. 

POSITIVES (+)

• Light and compact
• Well designed and engineered. This is a solid product made from premium materials.
• Can be handheld or mounted to the camera’s hotshoe/coldshoe
• Single & Continuous Meter Mode
• Both the metering and laser features are extremely accurate
• Aperture and Shutter Priority Modes
• Easy to change ISO setting
• Rechargeable Lithium Battery
• Easy-to-read screen, especially in low light
• Available in Pro (7° meter angle) and Lite (30° meter angle)
• Available in Black or Silver

Note: Although the laser accuracy is excellent please be aware that the L.D. Meter is a cold-shoe accessory, and its laser unit is offset from the camera’s lens axis and the film plane. This necessitates a slight mental or physical adjustment, especially at close focusing distances, to ensure the measured point corresponds to the subject’s true distance from the film plane.

NEGATIVES (-)

We love the Chi L.D. Meter, however, no product is perfect for everyone, so here are some of the negatives, which may or may not be negatives for everyone.

• Only does 1/3 stop aperture increments (no 1/2 stops) in Aperture/Shutter Priority Modes
• Can only be recharged via USB. If you forget to charge there is no option to replace a battery on location
• Magnetic Sight not included
• More expensive than our TTartisans Light Meter, however, that light meter does not have a laser

THE FINAL WORD

With the ever-increasing popularity of film photography, especially with rangefinder cameras, the L.D. Meter is an invaluable product for film photography. Although many photographers use the Sunny 16 rule or other coldshoe-mounted meters for their exposure, the L.D. The meter has the added benefit of the Laser rangefinder, making it ideal for those who want to check the distance to a subject when using zone focusing.

The unit is remarkably compact, features an intuitive single-button and dial control scheme, and is built with a sturdy aluminium body (available in Frosted Black or Silver). The LED screen is bright and clear, displaying all vital exposure parameters (ISO, Shutter Speed, Aperture, EV, and Distance) at a glance. It’s a device designed to be used quickly on the street.

Its combination of accurate metering and laser distance measurement, all wrapped in a sleek, rechargeable, and durable package, represents a significant evolution in accessory meters for the analogue community. The Pro Version is highly recommended for its powerful spot-metering functionality.

In conclusion, the Chinotechs L.D. Meter is an ingenious and highly practical piece of kit that revitalises the experience of shooting with classic, meterless film cameras. The light meter and laser rangefinder are both extremely accurate. It is an essential purchase for anyone regularly using zone-focus compacts or large-format/medium-format cameras without a built-in rangefinder.

If you have any questions about this product, feel free to leave a comment below.

RATED: HIGHLY RECOMMENDED

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