Introduction & Geography

There’s a lot of information here, so we have broken it up into 2 posts. This post focuses on Kiritimati (Christmas Island), and Part 1 focuses on Tarawa. For all the historical, cultural, and practical information, we strongly suggest you read Part 1 first, as we are not going to repeat the information in this post.

Kiritimati is the world’s largest coral atoll by land area, making up nearly half of the nation’s total landmass.

It is located 3,277km from Tarawa, the capital, and requires a 4.5-hour flight and even longer if you fly via Nadi, Fiji.

*Important Note: In this post, we refer to Kiritimati, which is also known as Christmas Island; however, there is also a Christmas Island in the Indian Ocean, which is an Australian territory. So to avoid any confusion, we use Kiritimati. Besides, if you were to Google “Christmas Island”, it will always refer to the Indian Ocean island.

Kiribati is composed of three main island groups: the Gilbert, Line, and Phoenix Islands. Kiritimati resides in the Line group. Most of these are coral atolls—narrow rings of land encircling turquoise lagoons—that sit just a few meters above sea level. Kiribati is the only country in the world to straddle all four hemispheres (North, South, East, & West). Kiritimati lies the furthest East and is famous as being the first place to witness the New Year.

The island’s written history began on Christmas Eve, 1777, when Captain James Cook arrived. He named it Christmas Island, noting its vast population of seabirds but lack of permanent inhabitants. While there is archaeological evidence of temporary Polynesian settlements centuries earlier, the island was largely uninhabited due to its remote location and scarce fresh water.

During the 19th century, Kiritimati became a target for the extraction of Guano, a natural, organic, and faster-acting fertiliser derived from bird or bat droppings, rich in phosphorus, nitrogen, and calcium. Later that century and into the 20th century, a French priest leased the island and planted hundreds of thousands of coconut trees for copra production.

Unfortunately, due to its remote location, it became the target of nuclear bomb testing by both the UK and US governments in the 1950s and 60s.

In 1979, Kiritimati became part of the newly independent Republic of Kiribati. The name “Kiritimati” is simply the Gilbertese transliteration of “Christmas.”

There are several villages on Kiritmati – Ronton (London), which is the closest thing to a commercial centre on the island. This is where the port is located, along with the bank, post office, hospital, supermarket, and a few other shops and services. Other villages include Tabwakea, Banana near the airport, and the isolated village of Poland, located on the opposite side of the lagoon. There’s also Paris on the opposite entrance to the lagoon, but as far as we know, this is uninhabited, but what a location!!!!

Travel Tips: Visiting the Remote Frontier

Visiting Kiritimati is an adventure for those who want to get off the grid. Like Tarawa, there are no luxury resorts; it is a place of raw beauty and authentic connection. The majority of visitors to this remote atoll are anglers who come here for the sensational fishing. The atoll has the benefit of both “bonefishing” in the lagoon and the multitude of small lakes and deep-sea fishing.

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1. Getting There

These days, getting to Kiritimati is pretty easy, but not cheap.

Australia – if you are travelling from Australia, the easiest way is to fly with Fiji Airways to Kiritimati via Nadi in Fiji. If you want to experience both Tarawa and Kiritimati, there are several ways to do it.

1. Fly to Nadi, Fiji with Fiji Airways, Qantas, Virgin Australia, or Jetstar, and then catch a connecting flight to Kiritimati or Tarawa. If going to Kiritimati first, you can catch a Fiji Airways flight (weekly) from Nadi, then a Nauru Airlines flight from Kiritimati to Tarawa. From Tarawa, you can catch a flight back to Australia via Nadi, Fiji.
2. Fly Nauru Airlines from Brisbane, Australia, to Tarawa. Then catch the Nauru Airlines flight to Kiritimati. On your return, you could fly back to Tarawa with Nauru Airlines or back to Australia via Nadi, Fiji with Fiji Airways

Just keep in mind that the flights are not frequent, so you will have to get your timing right, and you may have to stay in places longer than you expect. Also, fares are astronomical in this part of the world.

USA – many visitors from the US travel to Kiritimati for the ‘Bone Fishing’. There aren’t direct flights; instead, you will need to get to Honolulu (Hawaii). From there, the Fiji Airways service will get you to Kiritimati. For those who want to visit Tarawa from Kiritimati, you will need to either catch a Fiji Airways flight from Kiritimati to Nadi (Fiji) and then a connection to Tarawa, or catch the Nauru Airlines flight direct to Tarawa. 

Asia – visitors from Asian countries can get to Kiritimati with Fiji Airways to Nadi (Fiji) and then a connecting flight to Kiritimati. Fiji Airways serves many Asian cities, so check online to find the nearest city served by the airline.

Kiritimati Atoll: There are other atolls that can be reached from Kiritimati now that Air Kiribati has recommenced operations. You can now travel between Kiritimati and Tabuaeran (Fanning Island) and Teraina (Washington Island) with Air Kiribati. Nauru Airlines now has flights between Tarawa and Kiritimati, making it much easier than flying via Nadi, Fiji. Check their flight schedules here. Kiritimati also has the luxury of flights from Nadi and Honolulu (Fiji Airways). So, these days, the atoll has become quite accessible, although not frequently.

2. When to Visit

The country is split into two main seasons, but because it sits right on the equator, it is “hot and hotter” year-round, with temperatures averaging 26°C to 32°C (79°F to 90°F).

The best time to visit Kiribati is between May and October, as this is the Dry Season and generally the most comfortable time for travellers. This time of year has lower humidity and steady trade winds, making the equatorial heat much more bearable. This time of year is the “sweet spot” for diving, snorkelling, and surfing. The visibility in the water is at its peak. The Dry Season also provides the clearest nights for viewing the night sky for those who love stargazing.

The Wet Season is between November and April. While Kiritimati doesn’t get “cold,” the rains can be intense, and the humidity heavy. Expect short, sharp tropical downpours and “King Tides”.  Also, Kiribati is the first country in the world to ring in the New Year. Being on Kiritimati Island for the very first sunrise of the year is a bucket-list experience for many.

Generally, for the best experience, plan your trip during the drier, slightly cooler months to ensure the best access to the island’s unique aquatic and birdlife environments. 

3. What to Pack

• Modest Clothing: While beachwear is fine for swimming, it is respectful to dress modestly (covering shoulders and knees) when entering villages or a Maneaba. Due to the heat, it is wise to wear loose-fitting, lightweight clothes made from breathable, natural fibres like linen, bamboo, or cotton.

• Cash is King: The Australian Dollar (AUD) is the official currency. Credit cards are accepted at some locations, but cash is preferred. There is an ATM at the ANZ bank in Ronton (London). There is a 12.5% Goods & Services Tax (GST) in Kiribati.

• Reef Shoes: The coral is sharp and beautiful; protect your feet.

• Camera Gear: As photographers, Kiribati is a photography paradise. We thought Tarawa was fantastic for photography; however, Kiritimati takes it to the next level. However, it is especially good for landscape (sunrise and sunset), travel, and nature photography. Like anywhere in this part of the world, you can’t leave home without a C-PL filter for all your lenses (or purchase a C-PL for your largest lens thread and use step-up adapter rings to put the filter on your other lenses with different thread sizes). Just be careful with C-PL filters on wide-angle lenses. For landscape images, make sure you pack ND ( 6 & 10 stop) and GND Filters (3 or 4 stop (Medium or Soft). Nature photographers will want to bring their longest lens (70-200mm, 100-400mm) here, as the bird photography is fantastic. Lastly, make sure you pack a tripod.
• Hat, Sunscreen, Sunglasses: No less than SPF50+. The sun in this part of the world will strip layers off you. If possible, take a wide-brimmed hat or at least a peak hat. Unless you want to be squinting all the time, make sure the sunnies are packed. There are remote beaches on Kiritimati between Poland and Paris, that even your sunglasses will struggle with on a sunny day!!
• Insect Repellant: You’ll be able to purchase this in Kiritimati, but it will be cheaper for you to take it with you. We always recommend a roll-on product called RID (Australian brand) or similar.

4. Etiquette & Customs

If you’ve read Part 1 then skip this part. Kiribati is a deeply traditional society where social harmony, humility, and respect for elders are paramount. Whether you are visiting a village or a community meeting house (maneaba), following these local customs will help you connect with the I-Kiribati people.

• Humility and Modesty: Humbleness is highly admired; avoid flashy displays of wealth or individual achievement.
• Respect for Elders: Always acknowledge and show deference to elders (Unimwane), whose wisdom is central to community life.
• Indirect Communication: People value politeness and harmony over directness. Discussions often involve long periods of small talk to build rapport before reaching a point.

Modesty is essential to avoid offending, especially outside tourist accommodations. Use the below as a guide for the dress code in Kiribati.

• Women: Shoulders and knees should be covered. A loose t-shirt and a lavalava/pareo (sarong) are standard for village visits.
• Men: Neat shorts and a shirt are acceptable, but a lavalava is required for formal functions.
• Public Swimming: Nude sunbathing is unacceptable; wear modest swimwear and cover up when leaving the water.

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Where to Eat

Eating on Kiritimati (Christmas Island) is a unique experience because there are very few standalone restaurants. Instead, dining is centred around fishing lodges and local guest houses. So, most visitors eat where they stay, as many lodges provide all-inclusive meal plans since food supplies (meats and vegetables) are often flown in from Hawaii or Fiji. Naturally, like Tarawa, there will be plenty of fish and coconut-based dishes.

Nevertheless, there are a few eateries on the island –

• Sand Beach Restaurant (Banana): One of the few dedicated eateries, located near the airport. It’s known for fresh seafood and ocean views.
• Mum’s Kitchen (London): A local favourite in the village of London (Ronton) offering authentic home-cooked Kiribati meals.
• Bistro de Myrko (Poland): Located in the remote village of Poland, this spot is often cited for its surprisingly diverse menu and international flair. We’re not sure who eats here, as it is such a remote location.
• Kiritimati Ben (London): The island’s go-to bakery for fresh bread and pastries—perfect for a morning snack.
• The Captain Cook Hotel (Banana): The island’s oldest hotel features a bar and dining room that serves simple, hearty meals like grilled fish and rice.

If you are visiting for fly-fishing, you will likely eat at your lodge. These spots are famous for serving the “catch of the day” and sashimi:

• Ikari House: Highly regarded for its food, particularly fresh tuna sashimi and lobster.

• The Villages: Known for providing consistent, hot meals for anglers.

• Lagoon View Resort: Offers a standard rotation of pancakes/eggs for breakfast and fish/chicken/pasta for dinner.

If you get the chance to eat with locals or at a village market in Tabwakea, look for:

• Milkfish: A local staple often grilled over an open fire.

• Lobster: Abundant and often served at lodge “Luau” nights.

• Palusami: Coconut cream and onions wrapped in taro leaves. Originally a Samoan, it is also popular in Fiji and Hawaii

• Sashimi: Often made from yellowfin tuna or wahoo caught that very morning.

While traditional foods remain central to the culture, you will also see a lot of imported goods in the villages today. Rice has become a daily staple, often served alongside fish, and canned meats (like corned beef) are frequently used for their long shelf life in the tropical heat.

• Water: Do not drink the tap water. Only drink bottled or filtered water provided by your lodge.
• Supplies: Fresh produce can be scarce if the supply plane is delayed. Expect a diet heavy on fish, rice, and coconut.
• Sunday Closures: Most shops and informal eateries in the villages close on Sundays, so plan in advance.

Where to Stay in Kiritimati

Due to the number of anglers who visit Kiritimati, there are ample accommodation choices. The majority are located in Ronton (London), with others in Tabwakea and Banana. As mentioned, most of these are lodges. During our visit, we stayed at The Villages, which, although not close to Ronton (London), is in a fantastic location right on the lagoon beach and right next to a church, which is a must-visit on a Sunday.

Here are a few recommended places to stay.

• Ikari House Lodge
  Best for: Serious anglers and those looking for high service standards. Details: Widely considered one of the premier fishing lodges on the island. It is known for its excellent food (especially fresh sashimi), professional fishing guides, and clean, air-conditioned rooms.
• Sunset Horizon Fishing Lodge
  Best for: Beachfront access and a casual atmosphere. Details: A straightforward hotel located right on the water. It offers a restaurant and minimalist rooms equipped with mini-fridges. It is popular for its proximity to the ocean and social atmosphere in the evenings.
• Lagoon View Resort
  Best for: Views and a resort-style feel. Details: Located on the edge of the lagoon, this resort offers a more traditional “island stay” experience. It is a common choice for both anglers and researchers visiting the island.
• The Villages Hotel
  Best for: History and reliability. Details: One of the long-standing accommodation options on the island. It provides comfortable, simple housing and is well-regarded for its consistent meal service and hospitality.
• Coconut Homestay
  Best for: Budget travellers and a local experience. Details: A smaller, more intimate option that offers a “home away from home” feel. It is highly rated for the friendliness of the hosts and its authentic local vibe.
• Captain Cook Hotel Best for: those wanting a relaxed atmosphere right on the beach. Details: Not far from the airport and is particularly popular with bonefishing enthusiasts.Seafood restaurant, simple rooms, and beach access.

If you have stayed elsewhere and can highly recommend it, then drop us a message in the comments box at the bottom of this post, and we will include it in this post.

• Booking: Many of these lodges operate on weekly schedules to align with the once-a-week flight from Fiji or Hawaii. It is highly recommended to book well in advance.
• Amenities: While most have air conditioning and private bathrooms, the island is remote—internet can be slow or unavailable, and electricity is generally reliable but subject to occasional island-wide issues.
• All-Inclusive: Most lodges include meals in their nightly or weekly rates because there are very few independent restaurants on the island.

What to do in Kiritimati

Kiritimati (Christmas Island) is a world-renowned destination best known for its outdoor adventures—specifically fishing and birdwatching—on the world’s largest coral atoll. There’s definitely enough to keep you entertained for a week, even if you are not an angler.

Besides the obvious, we highly recommend a visit to the village of Poland on the eastern side of the atoll. The beaches between Poland and Paris are pristine and untouched by tourism. The water is crystal clear, and the sand will hurt your eyes on a sunny day. 

Lastly, if you are there on a Sunday, which is likely, then we always recommend attending a church service. Church services are always magical in the Pacific Islands, and they can be quite uplifting, even if you are not religious.

Kiritimati is often called the “Bonefishing Capital of the World.” Even if you are not an angler, we strongly recommend hiring a guide to take you out and show you how it’s done. 

• Bonefishing: The endless shallow lagoon flats are perfect for saltwater fly fishing. It is strictly catch-and-release to preserve the population.
• Game Fishing: Beyond the reefs, you can go after “big game” species like Blue Marlin, Sailfish, Yellowfin Tuna, Wahoo, and Giant Trevally (GT).

The entire island is a wildlife sanctuary, making it a bucket-list spot for naturalists.

• Birdwatching: It is one of the most important seabird breeding grounds in the world. You can see massive colonies of Sooty Terns, Red-footed Boobies, Frigatebirds, and the endemic Christmas Island Warbler (Bokikokiko).
• Seabird Rookeries: Take a boat trip to the outer motu (islets) like Cook Island to see thousands of nesting birds up close. This was certainly a highlight of our visit.
• Marine Life: The lagoon and surrounding waters are home to dolphins, manta rays, and sea turtles.

Conclusion

Ultimately, visiting Kiritimati is less of a traditional vacation and more of a pilgrimage to the rawest edges of the Pacific. As the world’s largest coral atoll by land area, it offers a rare landscape where the scale of the turquoise lagoons is matched only by the profound silence of its stunning and remote beaches. Whether you are standing at the edge of the International Date Line to be among the first to see the sunrise or navigating the legendary bonefish flats that draw anglers from across the globe, the island demands a slower, more intentional pace. To leave Kiritimati is to carry away a piece of its “tomorrow is another day” philosophy—a reminder of a place where life remains anchored to the tides, the frigate birds, and the enduring warmth of the I-Kiribati people.

If you have any questions or comments, we would love to hear from you in the comments below. If you haven’t read Part 1 – Tarawa, click on the link below.

Image Licensing

We have a large library of images from Kiribati available for licensing. Below, we have provided a small gallery of images from Kiritimati that are available; however, if there is a specific image that you require, please contact us

Kiribati Postcards

We have been producing a range of postcards that have been selling in Kiribati for many years. These are sold at Kiribati Post outlets and at the Kiribati Philatelic Bureau. As far as we know, they are also selling on Kiritimati. We also hold limited stock here in Australia to sell to Postcard Collectors. If you are interested in seeing the availability, please click here

Workshop & Tour

If you don’t feel comfortable visiting Kiribati on your own, why not join us on a Kiribati Photography Workshop or a Kiribati Tour in 2027? If you are interested, please fill in the form below with your expression of interest.