Introduction & Geography

There’s a lot of information here, so we have broken it up into 2 posts. This post concentrates on Tarawa, and Part 2 concentrates on Kiritimati (Christmas Island).

Kiribati is pronounced KEER-ih-bahss – and is actually the local pronunciation of “Gilberts,” derived from the British Captain Thomas Gilbert, who “discovered” the islands in 1788. In the Gilbertese language, ‘s’ is often rendered as ‘ti’, hence Kiribati.

Kiribati is a nation that feels less like a country and more like a vast, blue continent.

Scattered across the central Pacific Ocean, it is the only nation in the world to straddle all four hemispheres—North, South, East, and West. Geographically, it is about midway between Australia and Hawaii, and Tarawa lies about 150km north of the equator.

The country is primarily considered part of the Micronesia region, though it has significant cultural and historical influences from Polynesia. While the population is overwhelmingly (over 98%) ethnic Micronesian, the southern islands were historically influenced by invasions from Samoa and Tonga, introducing Polynesian cultural elements.

While its total land area is roughly the size of New York City, its *33 atolls and islands are spread across an incredible 3.5 million square kilometres of ocean.

Kiribati is composed of three main island groups: the Gilbert, Line, and Phoenix Islands. Most of these are coral atolls—narrow rings of land encircling turquoise lagoons—that sit just a few meters above sea level.

*There are 32  atolls and one raised island (Banaba), making 33 land masses

• Tarawa: The capital atoll and the country’s economic hub.
• Kiritimati (*Christmas Island): The world’s largest coral atoll by land area, making up nearly half of the nation’s total landmass.
• The Phoenix Islands Protected Area (PIPA): One of the largest marine protected areas on Earth and a UNESCO World Heritage site.

*Important Note: In this post, we refer to Kiritimati, which is also known as Christmas Island; however, there is also a Christmas Island in the Indian Ocean, which is an Australian territory. So to avoid any confusion, we use Kiritimati. Besides, if you were to Google “Christmas Island”, it will always refer to the Indian Ocean island.

Tarawa Atoll: There are many other atolls that can be reached, now that Air Kiribati has commenced flights. You can now even travel between Tarawa and Kiritimati with Nauru Airlines in 4.5 hours (3,277 km / 2,036 miles) without flying via Nadi in Fiji. Check Nauru Airlines’ flight schedules here. Remote islands can be reached from Tarawa and Kiritimati for those who really want to get off the beaten track. You can check out their flight schedule here.

Today, Kiribati, as well as Tuvalu, is perhaps most famous for its position at the forefront of the climate change conversation. Because the islands are so low-lying, they are exceptionally vulnerable to rising sea levels and king tides. The government has gained international attention for its “Migration with Dignity” policy and its proactive stance on climate adaptation, highlighting the urgent need for global environmental action to preserve their ancestral home.

Culture & People (i-Kiribati)

The people of Kiribati, known as I-Kiribati, have a culture deeply rooted in the sea and communal living. They aren’t “loud” in the way some Western cultures are. If you were to step into a village in Kiribati today, you’d find people who are exceptionally resilient, community-minded, and famously unhurried. They might seem shy or quiet at first, especially to strangers, but once a connection is made, they are incredibly hospitable. A visitor is often treated as an honoured guest, and it’s common for a family to offer their best food—even if it’s all they have—to a newcomer.

• The Maneaba: The traditional meeting house is the heart of every village, serving as a site for governance, celebrations, and storytelling.

• Navigation & Dance: I-Kiribati are renowned for their ancient seafaring skills and unique traditional dances, characterised by sharp, bird-like head movements that mimic the frigate bird.

• Language: Gilbertese (or Kiribati) is the primary language, though English is widely used in official capacities.

Travel Tips: Visiting the Remote Frontier

Visiting Kiribati is an adventure for those who want to get off the grid. It is not a place of luxury resorts; it is a place of raw beauty and authentic connection. It certainly is not the easiest place to get to, and far from a bargain. The fares can be astronomical, but in our opinion, the destination will be worth it. 

1. Getting There & Around

Most international flights land in Tarawa (TRW) via Fiji or Nauru. If you want to visit Kiritimati (Christmas Island), you’ll likely need to fly from Honolulu or Fiji. This is usually with Fiji Airways. If you are already in Tarawa, you can catch a flight to Kiritimati with Nauru Airlines. Note that these flights are often weekly, so missed connections mean a long wait!

Australia – if you are travelling from Australia, you can either fly with Fiji Airways, Qantas, Virgin Australia, or Jetstar to Nadi, and then a connecting flight to either Tarawa or Kiritimati with Fiji Airways. The other alternative from Australia is to fly from Brisbane to Tarawa with Nauru Airlines. From there, you can catch a flight to Kiritimati with Nauru Airlines or continue from Tarawa to Nadi and then to Kiritimati.

USA – many visitors from the US travel to Kiritimati for the ‘Bone Fishing’ (see Part 2), which is phenomenal there. There aren’t direct flights, but instead you will need to get to Honolulu (Hawaii). From there, the Fiji Airways service will get you to Kiritimati. For those who want to visit Tarawa from Kiritimati, you will need to either catch a Fiji Airways flight from Kiritimati to Nadi (Fiji) and then a connection to Tarawa, or catch the Nauru Airlines flight direct to Tarawa. Lastly, if you want the most direct route from the USA to Tarawa, the only solution is to catch a flight to Nadi (Fiji) on either Fiji Airways, American Airlines, or Qantas, then a connecting flight to Tarawa.

Asia – visitors from Asian countries can get to Tarawa by Fiji Airways to Nadi (Fiji) and then a connecting flight to either Tarawa or Kiritimati. Fiji Airways serves many Asian cities, so check online to find the nearest city served by the airline.

Getting around Kiribati – Since we visited Kiribati, they have now re-ignited the local airline – Air Kiribati. This has opened a world of opportunities to visit and explore more remote islands from both Tarawa and Kiritimati. For Air Kiribati’s flight schedule, click here.

Above: Bonriki International Airport, Tarawa, Kiribati

2. When to Visit

The country is split into two main seasons, but because it sits right on the equator, it is “hot and hotter” year-round, with temperatures averaging 26°C to 32°C (79°F to 90°F).

The best time to visit Kiribati is between May and October, as this is the Dry Season and generally the most comfortable time for travellers. This time of year has lower humidity and steady trade winds, making the equatorial heat much more bearable. This time of year is the “sweet spot” for diving, snorkelling, and surfing. The visibility in the water is at its peak. If you are interested in visiting Kiribati for Independence Day (July 12), you will be in for a treat. This is the biggest event of the year. Celebrations often last a week and feature massive traditional dance competitions, canoe racing, and kite flying. If you want to see culture at its most vibrant, go in July.

The Wet Season is between November and April. While Kiribati doesn’t get “cold,” the rains can be intense, and the humidity heavy. Expect short, sharp tropical downpours and “King Tides,” which can occasionally flood causeways in South Tarawa. Surprisingly, this is a great time for marine life. Kiribati established one of the world’s largest shark sanctuaries in 2016 to protect its diverse shark populations, including Whale sharks that often visit between November and April, and it’s a prime time for spotting dolphins and minke whales. Also, Kiribati is the first country in the world to ring in the New Year. Being on Kiritimati Island for the very first sunrise of the year is a bucket-list experience for many.

3. What to Pack

• Modest Clothing: While beachwear is fine for swimming, it is respectful to dress modestly (covering shoulders and knees) when entering villages or a Maneaba. Due to the heat, it is wise to wear loose-fitting, lightweight clothes made from breathable, natural fibres like linen, bamboo, or cotton.

• Cash is King: The Australian Dollar (AUD) is the official currency. Credit cards may not be accepted outside of major hotels in Tarawa, and ATMs are scarce. There is a 12.5% Goods & Services Tax (GST) in Kiribati.

• Reef Shoes: The coral is sharp and beautiful; protect your feet.

• Camera Gear: For photographers, Kiribati is a photography paradise. It is especially great for landscape (sunrise and sunset), documentary, travel, and street photography. You’ll definitely need a C-PL filter for all your lenses (or purchase a C-PL for your largest lens thread and use step-up adapter rings to put the filter on your other lenses with different thread sizes). Just be careful with C-PL filters on wide-angle lenses. If you want to take landscape images, make sure you pack ND (Neutral Density) – 6 & 10 stops, and GND (Graduated Neutral Density) filters – 3 or 4 stop densities (Medium or Soft). To house these filters, you will need a Filter Holder. Lastly, make sure you pack a tripod.
• Hat, Sunscreen, Sunglasses: No less than SPF50+. The sun in this part of the world will strip layers off you. If possible, take a wide-brimmed hat or at least a peak hat. Unless you want to be squinting all the time, make sure the sunnies are packed.
• Insect Repellant: You’ll be able to purchase this in Kiribati, but it will be cheaper for you to take it with you. We always recommend a roll-on product called RID (Australian brand) or similar.

4. Etiquette & Customs

Kiribati is a deeply traditional society where social harmony, humility, and respect for elders are paramount. Whether you are visiting a village or a community meeting house (maneaba), following these local customs will help you connect with the I-Kiribati people.

• Humility and Modesty: Humbleness is highly admired; avoid flashy displays of wealth or individual achievement.
• Respect for Elders: Always acknowledge and show deference to elders (Unimwane), whose wisdom is central to community life.
• Indirect Communication: People value politeness and harmony over directness. Discussions often involve long periods of small talk to build rapport before reaching a point.

Modesty is essential to avoid offending, especially outside tourist accommodations. Use the below as a guide for the dress code in Kiribati.

• Women: Shoulders and knees should be covered. A loose t-shirt and a lavalava/pareo (sarong) are standard for village visits.
• Men: Neat shorts and a shirt are acceptable, but a lavalava is required for formal functions.
• Public Swimming: Nude sunbathing is unacceptable; wear modest swimwear and cover up when leaving the water.

Where & What to Eat

Eating in Kiribati is a masterclass in making the most of what the earth and ocean provide. Because the islands are coral atolls with sandy, high-saline soil, agriculture is limited—so the locals have mastered the art of the coconut, the breadfruit, and, of course, the Pacific Ocean.

The “Big Three” Staples

• Coconut (Te Ben): This is the lifeblood of the islands. You’ll find it in every stage of growth—from the sweet water of young green nuts to the thick cream squeezed from mature flesh used to flavour almost every dish.
• Breadfruit (Te Mai): A starchy fruit that tastes remarkably like freshly baked bread when roasted. It’s often boiled, mashed, or fried into chips.
• Pandanus (Te Kaina): One of the few trees that thrives in the salt air. The fruit is fibrous and sweet; it’s often chewed raw or processed into a dried paste or flour that can last for years.

From the Ocean

Since the land is narrow, the sea is the primary pantry. If it swims near the reef, it’s probably on the menu.

• Fish: Tuna, flying fish, and snapper are common. They are often eaten raw (marinated in coconut cream and lime), grilled over open flames, or dried in the sun to preserve them.
• Shellfish: Giant clams, lobsters, and various reef crabs are local delicacies, usually boiled or added to coconut-based stews.

Traditional Specialties

• Te Bwabwai (Giant Swamp Taro): This is a prized crop grown in deep, hand-dug pits. Because it takes years to mature, it’s usually reserved for feasts and celebrations. It has a dense, potato-like texture.
• Palusami: A classic Pacific dish where coconut cream and onions are wrapped in young taro leaves and baked in an underground oven (Te Um).
• Te Karewe: This is the fresh sap tapped from the coconut spathe. It’s incredibly sweet and can be drunk fresh, boiled down into a thick syrup (like molasses), or fermented into a potent coconut toddy.

While traditional foods remain central to the culture, you will also see a lot of imported goods in the villages today. Rice has become a daily staple, often served alongside fish, and canned meats (like corned beef) are frequently used for their long shelf life in the tropical heat.

Naturally, you will find plenty of places to eat in South Tarawa; however, once you venture to North Tarawa and more remote locations, the places to eat will be mostly restricted to the place that you are staying.

Tarawa’s dining scene is largely centred in South Tarawa, particularly in the districts of Bairiki, Betio, and Ambo. Given the island’s geography, fresh seafood—especially tuna—is a primary highlight, often complemented by a strong presence of Chinese-Pacific fusion cuisine and laid-back lagoon-side cafes. Here are just a few of the recommended places to eat.

• Mary’s Motel is one of the most established dining spots in Bairiki, known for offering some of the best food on the atoll in a family-run setting. They offer a blend of local Kiribati flavours with international dishes.
• Utirerei Hotel in Ambo offers a more tranquil, upscale dining experience that has hosted visiting dignitaries and international travellers. They serve a diverse menu of European, Asian, and local Kiribati cuisine.
• Ocean Family Seafood Restaurant is widely considered the premier Chinese restaurant in Kiribati, located in the Bairiki Shopping Mall. They specialise in Guangdong-style dishes, including a variety of fried noodles and rice options.
• Capitol Grille is a sturdy, dependable choice in Betio for those looking for local Chinese fusion at an affordable price. It is often referred to as “Capital Restaurant.” It is a popular stop for those on WWII history tours. It is located next to Betio Lodge.

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For those who are looking for a cafe and that perfect cup of coffee you can try the following.

• Mary’s Beach Café, located at Takoronga Point on Betio, is a favourite for those wanting to enjoy a meal with a view of the Tarawa lagoon. Offers a laid-back atmosphere with cool sea breezes and outdoor seating.
• Chatterbox Café, situated in Bikenibeu, provides a contemporary cafe experience and is a top pick for coffee enthusiasts. Not that far from the airport, so this is a great place to hang out before your flight.

Where to Stay in South Tarawa

There are a lot of accommodation options throughout the South Tarawa atoll. Once you head to North Tarawa and beyond, the options become limited. Most of the accommodation on the atolls of North Tarawa and beyond are remote lodges, homestays, and resorts (not in the traditional sense). We stayed at the government-owned Otintaai Hotel in Bikenibeu, but it does not get much of a mention these days, and it is not very central. Here are a few recommended places to stay.

• The George Hotel – one of the more modern facilities in Betio, making it a popular choice for business travellers and those interested in WWII history. It has air-conditioned rooms and an on-site restaurant and bar.
• Mary’s Motel – a long-standing institution in Bairiki, offering a central location that is convenient for accessing administrative offices and the main shopping areas.
• Betio Lodge – located close to the Betio Sports Complex, and is only a few minutes’ drive to the main shopping areas. It has a restaurant (Capitol Grille), a cafe (Mauriccino Cafe), and a bar.
• Fema Lodge – located in Antebuka Village, about midway on the atoll of South Tarawa. It is popular with business travellers, NGO staff, and tourists due to its central location and lagoon views.

If you have stayed elsewhere and can highly recommend it, drop us a message in the comments box at the bottom of this post, and we will include it in this post.

What to do in South Tarawa

Tarawa, the capital of Kiribati, is an atoll of two distinct halves: South Tarawa, a bustling, densely populated urban centre, and North Tarawa, a string of peaceful islets where traditional Kiribati life remains largely unchanged. Accommodation is scattered along the main atoll, from Betio to Bonriki. We stayed at the Otintaai Hotel in Bikenibeu, which is not far from the airport. The main atoll is very long, so if you want to stay fairly central, consider staying in Bairiki or Banraeaba. Regardless, if you want to maximise the places you can visit on Tarawa, you may be better off hiring a vehicle. The distance between Betio and Bonriki at the other end of the atoll is just over 30km, which takes over an hour to drive.

• Parliament House (Maneaba ni Maungatabu): Visit this striking building in Ambo, built on an artificial island. It is designed to resemble a traditional maneaba (meeting house).

• Bairiki Square: Explore the administrative heart of the country, visit the local post office for unique Kiribati stamps (or maybe even our Kiribati postcards ), and grab a casual lunch at a local cafe.

• Betio WWII Relics: Head to the westernmost tip of South Tarawa. Betio was the site of one of the bloodiest battles in the Pacific – The Battle of Tarawa. You must see the Vickers 8-inch Coastal Defence Guns. These massive Japanese-installed guns still stand in their original emplacements. There are also scattered Japanese Command Bunkers to explore. These reinforced concrete bunkers were used by the Japanese command.

Visit the Coast Watchers Memorial and the American and Japanese war memorials. The Coast Watchers Memorial is located at the Temakin Cemetery and commemorates 22 British subjects executed at Betio on or about 15 October 1942, comprising 17 New Zealanders, 2 Australians, and 3 British nationals. The Battle of Tarawa memorial is located in front of the National Sports Complex. The battle lasted from 20 to 23 November 1943 and killed 1,696 US servicemen (Marines & Navy). Lastly, a Japanese Memorial Garden commemorates the 4,690 soldiers and labourers killed in the battle. It is located adjacent to the Customs Division office in Betio. This site serves as a memorial garden and includes Shinto shrines honouring the Japanese soldiers.

Te Umanibong (National Cultural Museum): Located in Bikenibeu, this museum houses artifacts, traditional crafts, and historical displays detailing Kiribati’s unique seafaring heritage. For more information, click here

What to do in North Tarawa

If you have the time, there are some worthwhile side trips from South Tarawa, or stay in one of the remote atolls to the north. North Tarawa offers a serene, traditional contrast to the densely populated capital of South Tarawa. It is a string of islets where life revolves around the tides, traditional “maneabas” (meeting houses), and the sea. This is the perfect place to witness more traditional practices of village life, such as coconut husking, “toddy cutting” (collecting sap from palm trees), and the intricate weaving of mats and baskets from pandanus leaves. For those who want a more laid-back experience, you can’t beat the crystal-clear waters and white sandy beaches of the northern atolls. These atolls are a paradise for those who enjoy slow, nature-focused travel. Here are a few suggestions.

• Island Hopping and Boat Trips: Since the islets are not all connected by road, travel often involves taking a public canoe or wading across channels at low tide. This “island time” experience is a highlight for many visitors.
• Swimming and Snorkelling: Unlike the lagoon in South Tarawa, the waters in the north are clean and inviting. Many islets offer pristine spots to snorkel among coral reefs and tropical fish.
• Traditional Canoe Sailing: You can experience sailing on a “te waa,” a traditional outrigger canoe known for being among the fastest in the Pacific.
• Sustainable Farms and Hatcheries: Visit sites like Atoll Beauties Clam Farm on Abatao to see how giant clams are raised, or explore local technical missions that focus on sustainable agriculture, like fruit and vegetable farming.

We highly recommend the following  –

Visiting Kiribati is more than a standard tropical getaway; it is a rare opportunity to witness one of the world’s most resilient cultures in a landscape that is physically changing by the year.

Because of its extreme isolation, Kiribati offers a “time-stood-still” experience that is becoming harder to find in a globalised world. You won’t find high-rise resorts or commercialised “luau” shows. Instead, you get to experience the Maneaba system—a living, ancient social structure where elders lead, and communal storytelling is the primary evening entertainment. To visit Kiribati is to be a guest in a community, not just a customer in a hotel.

Kiribati is at the global forefront of the climate crisis. Visiting now offers a profound perspective on the “Migration with Dignity” philosophy and the tangible reality of rising sea levels. Engaging with the local tourism industry helps fund the very resilience projects (like sustainable transport and circular economy initiatives) that help the I-Kiribati maintain their way of life.

For those who seek the “off-the-beaten-path,” the rewards are unparalleled. Kiritimati Island is an angling paradise and is globally recognised as the premier destination for bonefishing and giant trevally. Unlike many popular diving hubs, the reefs here remain largely untouched and teeming with rare seabirds and diverse marine life. For WWII history buffs, the relics of the Battle of Tarawa provide a sobering and fascinating “open-air museum”, with coastal guns and tanks still resting in the lagoon.

Lastly, for those who just want a “Robinson Crusoe” experience and just want to chill out on a remote atoll and engage with local villagers, then look no further. For an even more remote experience, you can fly to numerous atolls with Air Kiribati.

If you have any questions or comments, we would love to hear from you in the comments below.

Image Licensing

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Kiribati Postcards

We have been producing a range of postcards that have been selling in Kiribati for many years. These are sold at Kiribati Post outlets and at the Kiribati Philatelic Bureau. We also hold limited stock here in Australia to sell to Postcard Collectors. If you are interested in seeing the availability, please click here

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