Exploring Koyasan – Photography + Travel Guide

Nestled on an 800-meter-high plain surrounded by eight peaks, Mount Kōya was first settled in 819 by the monk Kūkai. This sacred site serves as the world headquarters of the Kōyasan Shingon sect of Japanese Buddhism. The selection of this location was inspired by the terrain, which is said to resemble a lotus plant. Over time, the original monastery has expanded into the town of Kōya.

Kongōbu-ji is the main temple of the Kōyasan Shingon Buddhism. It is also known as “Kōyasan-Issan”, which translates to “the mountain of Kōya”. In 2004, UNESCO designated Kongōbu-ji as part of the World Heritage Site “Sacred Sites and Pilgrimage Routes in the Kii Mountain Range“. The traditional pilgrimage route to Mount Kōya, known as Kōya Sankeimichi, was also included in the World Heritage Site.

We didn’t get a chance to visit Koyasan on our first visit to Japan, but we ensured it was on the list for our second visit. Koyasan is one of our favourite places we have visited so far in Japan. Although Koyasan is not a big town there’s a multitude of places to visit that will keep you entertained and we recommend that you allow a couple of days in your itinerary to visit this magical place.

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Most travellers will visit Koyasan from Osaka. Although the town is not that far from Osaka, you cannot use the JR Pass. The Kansai Railway Pass (formerly known as the Kansai Thru Pass) will cover all your rail travel needs to get to Koyasan from Osaka, Kyoto, Osaka Airport, Kobe, and Himeji. A 2-day pass will cost 5,600Y and a 3-day pass costs 7,000Y. The pass is only valid on non-JR trains and does not include buses. The only problem with this pass is that if you want to spend 2-3 days in Koyasan the pass will virtually only be used for transportation to Koyasan and back, therefore it may be better value to buy individual tickets to Koyasan.

At the time of writing the *Rapid Express from Namba (Osaka) on the Nankai Electric Railway (Koya Line) will cost 930Y each way to Gokurakubashi Station (there is also a *Limited Express train that is only slightly quicker but will cost an additional 790Y each way). The Cable Car from Gokurakubashi to Koyasan will cost another 500Y each way. Then there will be the bus fare from the cable car station to the town of Koyasan. All these costs indicate that you are better off buying individual tickets than the Kansai Railway Pass unless the pass offers you lots of extra benefits or if you are only doing Koyasan as a day trip.

However, a better option may be the Koyasan World Heritage Ticket. This digital or paper ticket covers all transport from Namba (Osaka) including the cable car and buses. The ticket is valid for 2 consecutive days and costs 3,140Y for the Digital Ticket or 3,540Y for the Paper Ticket. The Ticket will also get you discounted prices for entry to some of the attractions in Koyasan

Once you are in Koyasan everything is mostly within walking distance. We didn’t use a bus at all during our time there.

If you are travelling from Kyoto it is the same route, however, it’s best to travel to Osaka. If you have a JR Pass it is quicker to catch the Shinkansen from Kyoto to Shin-Osaka Station. From there catch the subway to Namba Station. From there you will need to get to the Nankai Namba Station. If you don’t have a JR Pass then catch a  Special Rapid Service to Osaka which will stop at Osaka Station (not Shin-Osaka) and then catch the subway to Namba Station as mentioned above.

* Just to confuse you – the Limited Express trains are faster than the Rapid Express. You usually pay a supplement fare for the Limited Express trains, however, it may be worth it if you are limited by time. In the instance of getting to Koyasan, it is only slightly faster (about 10min) than the Rapid Express.

It doesn’t matter what brand of camera you use or what lenses you use and it also doesn’t matter what size sensor you use (eg. Full Frame, APS-C, Micro Four Thirds). However, it does matter that you understand the limitations of your camera. For example, if you like shooting a lot of night photography, then a full-frame sensor will be more beneficial for handling low-light. From 2005 til 2014, we used APS-C sensor cameras; although they didn’t handle low light very well, they were fine, although a bit noisy (grainy). Both images that we’ve had published in National Geographic coffee table books were taken on APS-C sensor cameras.

We find it counterintuitive to carry a bag full of prime lenses, as doing so can lead to missed shots. It never ceases to amaze us during our travels when we see photographers hunched over, struggling under the weight of heavy backpacks filled with unnecessary equipment. Nevertheless, it is up to you how much equipment you carry. In our opinion, and with  40+ years of experience in travel photography, you only need a couple of zoom lenses and a couple of prime lenses. These will cover the majority of your shots. We do not carry the more expensive and vastly heavier f/2.8 zoom lenses as we have found that the f/4 versions of the lens are sufficient for us, but hey, that suits us, but may not suit you. Balls in your court!

Now that sounds like a lot of gear; however, just a reminder that there are two of us carrying this gear. Paul carries a 24-105, 15mm, 12mm fisheye, and 35mm lenses, while Helen carries a 24-105, 16-35, and 18mm lenses. We didn’t have our Voigtlander 10mm f/5.6 lens with us on this trip, but it would have made it into the bag as well.

In general, we recommend you carry, at the very least, a standard 24-70mm lens or similar, which will cover most of your shots. Some people don’t like zooms, and that is a personal preference; however, in travel photography, we have found that these offer the best flexibility for a wide range of shooting scenarios. Try to carry at least one ultra-wide-angle lens (<24mm) such as a 16-35mm. If you do not have a fast ultra-wide-angle zoom lens, then maybe opt for a prime (fixed focal length) lens with a f/2.8 aperture.

Filters

We did not use any filters in Koyasan, although our URTH CPL (polariser) and a couple of circular URTH ND screw-in filters were always in our bag. In hindsight, a diffusion filter (1/8 or 1/4) may be useful for night shots in the Okunoin Cemetery. This filter will soften the bright lamps that light the path.

Tripods can be a pain to carry around all day; however, you will regret it if you don’t have one with you at all times in Koyasan. We made sure we had at least one tripod between us every day. You don’t need a bulky tripod commonly used by landscape photographers, just a lightweight compact travel tripod. Usually, a tripod weighing up to 1.5 kg is easy enough to carry. We have  Peak Design Travel Tripods that are lightweight and compact. Keep in mind, you are more likely to carry a tripod around all day when it is lightweight and compact, so it is worth investing in a sturdy, lightweight model. If your tripod is not light, you will start questioning yourself each morning whether it is worth carrying around for the day, and admittedly, in a lot of instances, it will not end up being used; however, at times when you need it, you will regret the fact that it is sitting in your hotel room. We also opt for the Silence Corner Atoll, which is permanently attached to our camera bodies. This may make the camera considerably bulkier, but we prefer it to an L-Bracket as you can rotate the camera and lens on the tripod from horizontal to vertical orientation without removing it from the tripod head.  

For our visit to Koyasan, we booked a 2-night stay. Everyone raves about a temple lodging (shukubo) in Koyasan, and this is probably the most authentic type of accommodation and possibly the ultimate cultural experience, but be prepared to pay a premium for the experience. There are about 50 temples in the area that will offer the lodging experience. If you choose to do a temple stay in Koyasan, just make sure there is no curfew as you may want to photograph the cemetery at night. It was certainly a highlight of our visit. We stayed at Koyasan Guest House Tommy, which was spacious, comfortable, and in a great location. Rooms are listed at 9000Y (just under USD$60) per night for 2 people on their site at the time of writing, which is extremely cheap for Koyasan, so you will have to book well in advance. You can also pay a small fee for breakfast at the Guest House which is prepared by the really friendly hosts.

Alternatively, there are not a large number of budget accommodation choices in Koyasan, so wherever you decide to stay, we suggest you book as soon as possible.

Visiting Koyasan as a day trip from Osaka is possible if you’re short on time; however, we highly recommend spending at least one night, so you have enough time to shoot at night and experience an early morning ceremony at the Okunoin Temple.

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If you are indulging in a temple stay, the price usually includes breakfast and dinner. If not, there’s not a lot on offer at night, so you may want to visit the Family Mart or the New Yamazaki Daily Store in Koyasan for takeaway food. Frequently, we eat takeaway food from convenience stores in Japan. There is always a huge choice to select from, and Paul is addicted to the pre-packaged maple pancakes that are available at Lawsons, Family Mart, & 7-Eleven convenience stores (beware – there’s also a red bean version).

During the day, there are many cafes to choose from. They are mostly located on the main street of the town, but beware, they all close fairly early, depending on the time of year you visit.

There are not many places to visit in Koyasan; however,  there are enough attractions to keep you entertained for the time most people stay here.

As mentioned, the main attraction is the Okunoin Temple. The temple has a deep and rich history. After returning from China in the year 819, where Kobo Daishi (Kukai), one of Japan’s most important Buddhist figures, studied Buddhism and esoteric practices , he founded the Shingon School of Buddhism, Kukai chose the remote and mystical Koyasan as a centre for his teachings.

Kobo Daishi’s Mausoleum: After Kukai’s death in 835 CE, he was interred at Okunoin, which became a sacred site. It is believed that he entered eternal meditation in the temple, making it a pilgrimage destination for followers. Over the centuries, Okunoin expanded, with numerous buildings constructed, including halls, pagodas, and the famous lantern-lined path leading to the mausoleum.

The temple has played a vital role in the spread of Shingon Buddhism throughout Japan and has been a centre for pilgrimage and meditation for more than a thousand years. In 2004, Koyasan, including Okunoin, was designated a UNESCO World Heritage Site, recognized for its cultural significance and natural beauty.

Today, Okunoin remains a place of deep spiritual significance and continues to attract visitors from around the world who seek peace and reflection in its tranquil setting.

Photography, food and drink are prohibited beyond the Gobyobashi Bridge, but don’t let that deter you from visiting, especially for the Shoujingu ceremony held at 6 am. Just make sure you leave early, as you will want to stop countless times en route to the temple for low-light moody shots (see image below).

Koyasan is famous for its temple lodgings. Of the 117 temples, over 50 offer rooms to visitors.

• The Experience: You sleep on futons in traditional tatami rooms and eat Shojin Ryori (Buddhist vegetarian cuisine), which is artfully prepared without meat or fish.

• Morning Rituals: Most temples invite guests to join the Morning Prayer Service (usually around 6:00 AM), and some perform the Goma Fire Ritual, a powerful ceremony involving consecrated flames and rhythmic chanting.

• Recommended Temples: Eko-in (very English-friendly, offers night tours), Soji-in (more luxurious), or Shojoshin-in (located right at the entrance to Okunoin).

This was the first site established by Kobo Daishi and represents the centre of Koyasan.

• Konpon Daito Pagoda: A massive, 49-meter-tall, bright vermillion pagoda. Inside, you’ll find a 3D mandala with gilded statues and painted pillars.
• Kondo Hall: The main hall of Koyasan, where major ceremonies are held.

Kongobu-ji is the head temple of Shingon Buddhism.

• Banryutei Rock Garden: It is the largest in Japan, featuring 140 granite stones arranged to look like two dragons emerging from a sea of clouds.

• Inside the Temple: You can walk through the temple to see the Fusuma (sliding doors) painted with beautiful cranes and seasonal flowers.

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If you are staying overnight, many temples (especially Eko-in) organise night tours of the cemetery led by English-speaking monks. The atmosphere at night—with stone lanterns flickering in the dark and the sound of the wind in the cedars—is hauntingly beautiful and quite different from the daytime.

The Daimon Gate is the imposing main entrance to the holy mountain temple complex of Mt. Koya. Originally built in the 11th century, the current structure dates back to 1705 and stands as a powerful symbol of the transition from the secular world into the sacred grounds of Shingon Buddhism.

• Architectural Grandeur: This massive two-story gate stands approximately 25 meters tall and is painted in a striking vermilion colour that contrasts beautifully with the surrounding forest.

• The Nio Guardians: The gate houses two fierce, large-scale wooden statues known as Nio, who serve as the protectors of the temple complex. These guardians are celebrated for their dynamic and powerful expressions.

• Strategic Location: Historically, this was the primary entry point for pilgrims arriving via the Choishi Michi trail. Today, it remains a popular starting point for visitors entering the town from the west.

• Scenic Views: On clear days, the area around the gate offers breathtaking panoramic views of the surrounding Kii Mountains, and it is a particularly famous spot for watching the sunset.

Make sure you have a wide-angle lens handy and a C-PL filter. If shooting the sunset from here, you may also want to consider a Graduated ND Filter to balance the sky with the foreground.

Ultimately, Koyasan is more than just a destination; it is a bridge between the physical and the spiritual, where the boundary between the two feels as thin as the morning mist. Whether you are wandering through the towering cedars of Okunoin, sharing a quiet vegetarian meal with monks, or witnessing the flickering light of a thousand-year-old lantern, the mountain offers a rare stillness that lingers long after you’ve descended. As a living sanctuary of Shingon Buddhism and a UNESCO World Heritage site, it remains a profound reminder that even in a rapidly changing world, there are places where time slows down, tradition breathes, and the spirit can find a home.

We strongly recommend a visit to Koyasan if you have the time. You only need a day or two, but to get the most out of Koyasan, you will need at least 1 night here to experience the Okunoin cemetery at night and enjoy the early-morning ceremony at the temple. You won’t regret it!

We hope you enjoyed this post and that it gives you lots of options for your visit to Koyasan. If you have found your own little gem in Koyasan, leave us a message in the comments section below, and we’ll try to include it in an update of the post. If you are interested in other areas in Japan, check out our other Exploring Japan guides below.